Saturday, 24 August 2013

Day 11 Saturday 24th

Sim and I decided that after 10 days work we deserved a day off. So it decided to rain. It's just like being at home. It rained however until 9:00 and then stopped just In time to enjoy a late breakfast on the verandah. Whilst I was clearing up yesterday's paper work, David (the gardener/handyman) came and asked if he could have lessons. I wasn't sure what he meant so after a few quizzical questions I discovered that I have the ability of a skewer. I ask questions that cut right through the meat. David says he has met many whites and none apart from me has this special gift. Could I teach him how to do it? Firstly it's a new one on me. Secondly how do you teach such a thing if its a gift. Thirdly I should probably explore this as I may have a business idea. In Africa It is perfectly acceptable to refer to a Blackman as black because he is. Equally to refer to me as a white or a mzungu, is harmless and perfectly acceptable. Well, I am white so it makes perfect sense to describe me as a white.  
After a leisurely morning we decided that the Internet at Mama Florence's was so bad that we should make an attempt to get it sorted. After all, this is how I make my living. After a little research we discovered that the router was sold to Florence just one and a half months ago. It cost her the equivalent of £100. She considered this a bit expensive but as she is trying to start a B and B business she needed to pay whatever it costs to get wifi as a selling point for her guests. I looked at the router and I recognised it as a router that i installed for a customer 8 years ago. It is actually about 7 years old and was sold to her as brand new just 5 weeks ago. I offered to go to the shop and insist on a replacement. Mama said 'This is Africa'. We went anyway because she had been ripped off and I was ready for a fight. We approached the seller and he agreed with every word that I said and immediately exchanged the router for a brand new, still packaged unit. As we left Mama was more than a little amazed and called it a miracle. She has never witnessed a shop keeper caving in so readily. In Uganda this never happens. Must have been something I said. Or my white skin. 
On our return to the house a lawn mower mechanic had arrived to repair the machine. The spark plug was damaged. I had inspected it a few days ago and pointed out the potential problem.  The 'engineer' stripped the machine down and announced that it was the coil and that he would require a certain amount of shillings to fix it. He came with no tools and no spares. Mama says this is the third mechanic to come and repair it. They all strip it down and remove a part and then ask for payment and then find that with the new part it still doesn't work. It seems that anyone can set themselves up as an engineer here and never carry tools or spares and then demand payment. Mama is used to paying them and then it still doesn't work. She says that she has to pay them anyway because they have worked for her and demand payment. I made it clear that i wasn't happy with the diagnosis and proceeded to cast real doubt on this man's efficiency. This time she refused payment strengthened I think by Sim and my presence.  Tomorrow, we will take David and mower to the Honda depot where we will be sure that it is repaired properly. 
This afternoon we went to watch some football and meet up with some old friends. 
Not a very exciting day and not many photos but it may be interesting to some. 


Friday, 23 August 2013

Day 10 Friday 23rd

Well today marks half way of this trip and what a way to mark it. Today I made a commitment that will change lives of 1000s of children and families forever. We also spent quality time with the children from BULA. 
After we left for Malangata this morning we stopped at a plant nursery to purchase what will become a very important plant for us. We selected an orange tree that was discarded at the back of the field and was so forgotten about that it had sprung its pot and had begun to root in the ground underneath. After some skillful hoeing the tree was released and we purchased it.  The Malangata Centre will be doing just that. Picking the discarded children of this society and deciding that they will be key. Then tending them and causing them to deliver fruit. 
After our customary daily one and half hour trip to the farm we had a site meeting with Zub to gauge siting and final costing of a borehole were we to proceed. We discussed several options and finally decided on the best position for the villagers and also for the main complex so that at a later time we could fit an electric pump and supply the complex with water on tap. After a brief conversation with a poss. trustee we decided that clean water was always more important than a door or a coat of paint. So we commissioned Zub to begin digging on Monday. Very exciting, but equally scary. We don't have the ready funds for this. I need a couple of thousand pounds quickly. I will be begging for yhe foreseesble future. This bore hole will transform so many lives. 
After a bit of banter with the builders, who have made great strides with the water harvesting, we left for Namirembe. The tanks are almost finished and the guttering is being positioned. I think we are now just about finished with water. That is so important. 
BULA children's home has been a home that we have supported for seven years. These young men and women were children when we first met them. They have grown into respectful, humble young adults. It is wonderful to spend time with them. Today was about spending time with them each where they are. Simeon went to the local playground where an impromptu game of football was arranged in haste.  it gave him time to find out what's happening in their lives whilst running in 28 degrees afternoon sunshine. He struggled with the conditions. And they want to play the World Cup in Qatsr in 2022?
I answered questions and discussed politics, religion, education and international relations with some very acute and bright young minds. It truly is a privilege to know these young people. I walked to the well with Vicent as he wanted a private chat with uncle (me). We talked pigs, family and other stuff. The walk to the well took 15 minutes. When we arrived, there was a man there that had been washing pots in the water from the pipe. He was standing down stream urinating. As we approached he completed what he was doing. Vicent jumped down into the concrete hole and stuck the jerry can under the pipe. I asked how often this has to be done for the home. 140 times every day. The water was disconnected at the home several weeks /months ago so the daily ritual of collecting water in the ubIquitous African yellow jerry can is a necessity for these children. This is survival. 
Vicent's dream in life is to own a pig. He doesn't dream of a family, or a car, or foreign holidays or his own place. He hopes that one day he will be able to have a pig so that he can begin to look after his two younger siblings. Vicent is 18 next month and he dreams of owning a pig.  His dream will cost between £7.50 and £12 to fulfil yet he can only dream of it. I told him that when he leaves this home and moves to somewhere where he can keep such an animal I will buy him one. He was overjoyed. 





Thursday, 22 August 2013

Day 9 Thursday 22nd

After a prolonged, unexpected and unwelcome visit from an African distant cousin of 'Delhi Belly', we set out 1 hour late. Today we only had two things to accomplish. Firstly we had to visit a water engineer, and then attend a funeral. 
We have talked for about a year of the need for a bore hole at Malangata. In both meetings this week, with the elders and with the 'dropouts', it was of equal importance to them as the proposed apprenticeships and training opportunities that we will offer there. I have spoken at many events over the past year or so and asked for funds so that we can sink a bore hole at Malangata. Today was exciting as we seemed to be nearing the fulfilment of a long term goal or at least exploring near to its completion. 
This morning we travelled cross country on the most appalling of roads so far, to meet an engineer who has so far installed 80 bore holes. Several months ago we took a quote for approximate £5000. Zub - his newly christened nickname because I can't pronounce his full name - will manually install for us at 11,000 000 Shillings. That is £2750. We visited several installations and also went to his home to see what he has done there. The system is so simple and has the advantage over many installations in that it can easily be adapted to add an electrical pump at a later date. This would mean that the centre could have runnIng water, showers and taps direct from the water table. It is easy to maintain and would take a couple of hours for repair should it be necessary. I mustn't lose sight of everything else that we do here but we certainly need this at Malangata and in my thinking also at the new plot on the Mityana Road. The locals at that place have been waiting for 3 years. At a village meeting back then I gave half the money to ensure it was done immediately. The government has promised many times but it is expected that it will not deliver for several years yet. Zub has 2 wives and 5 children. He stays in a small house at the end of a road. In fact the road finishes at his front door. He has built it himself. With his water skills he has produced a family home that by African standards is very well equipped. We inspected his pump, the well, an underground reservoir which is there for 'just in case', And his overhead tanks. Sim also checked out his flushing toilet, sinks and showers. Zub has no qualifications and can't speak English particularly well. He dropped out of school at 13. But has the knack of getting it done. He is the right kind of role model the youth at Malangata need. 
I commissioned him to sink us a well at Malangata and tomorrow we have a site meeting to plan the installation. I now have a death defying balancing act to perform as I want the building finished but I also want water there and I also need to be seen to be a man of my word and produce the goods as soon as possible. The dropouts want the centre open yesterday. I told them that it will be a gradual process but I want the first things to be happening by Christmas this year. I am used to such balancing acts and pressure so look forward to the challenge of keeping all people on side and delivering by December. If you have spare pennies that you'd like to commit to the bore hole or the Malangata Centre please get giving. 
After this superb meeting we headed back to Kampala via the most ridiculous set of road repairs and management system of those roadworks you have ever seen. Total Mayhem. I usually maintain a passive demeanour but this was an occasion when I began to show my frustrations. 
We arrived at the funeral and discovered the story of the death as the funeral progressed. There were some 50 or 60 vehicles parked by the side of the road and as we approached the funeral place  we quickly estimated just how many attendees there were. We reckoned aproximately 1000. It was obviously the funeral from a rich family as they had paid for a funeral management company. Tents, flowers, food and a hearse. Poor people do it themselves. This seemed an extraordinarily large affair to us but were informed that it wasn't large at all. Funerals are a community occasion. This particular funeral was for a 23 year old that had been shot dead in his home. The police have decided to let the perpetrators escape this time apparently because it would be too costly to open an investigation. At an African funeral it appears that if you have something to say you may take the microphone and address the congregation. The local MP was in attendance and so he took the opportunity, after a 2 minute expression of sadness at the tragedy, to use the funeral as a political rally. As an opposition MP he felt it is his duty to point out the President's failings, the inadequacies of the police force etc. the grievers sniggered and openly laughed with embarrassment and showed their frustrations with the arrogance of the man. It was appalling. TIA (This Is Africa). 
I enquired as to the unusual nature of this type of funeral and was told that this is a regular occurrence. Yesterday in another district 10 people from one household were poisoned, I was informed, and 3 days ago 6 members of another family were murdered - shot dead.  This type of thing is unfortunately very common here. Unpaid debts, thefts, disagreements, sometimes for the most of petty reasons. It seems Uganda is much closer to lawlessness than the UK. On reflection maybe the politician has a point, but at a funeral?
We returned to our accommodation and ate a meal of Tilapia, chips and Ugandan spinach served and cooked by Mama Florence.  It was delicious. 



Wednesday, 21 August 2013

Day 8 Wednesday 21st

Always a drama.  Someone last week said to me about Uganda, that it is '2 steps forward and 17 back'. A slight exaggeration but in essence, probably a truth. Every time we come here it seems that we are still teaching how to suck eggs. That said, Benedicta yesterday thanked me publicly for possibilities' efforts. She remarked that her life and situation and that of her girls had been transformed. I am often humbled here. We can only measure our success over many steps and over several years' effort. 
Today we left early because of our midday meeting at Malangata. After collecting Benedicta and two pigs for Juliet and Lydia, we set out. Once again Kevin travelled with us. It seems she can't get enough. Today she told us that she has only been to two places in her whole life. Gulu, the main city in the north of the country, and Kampala City itself. She has loved visiting new places with us.  After carefully navigating the inevitable traffic jam we got to the highway as the sun was getting hot -about 9:00am we travelled about 1 mile and then Sim noticed that we were minus 1 pig. We laughed before the realisation dawned that we really were 1 pig down. As we approached a roundabout the panic had set in and whilst we were all talking at once in an African panic sort of way, a driver of another car shouted that she had seen a pig running across the carriageway. We raced back to find our escapee. After 1 hour of trying to locate our miscreant, (knocking on, doors searching the undergrowth, speaking with passers by) we had to concede defeat and decided that Juliet and Lydia only needed 1 pig after all. As with careful and sensible management it could become 10 in a short while anyway. 
We set off again with our remaining pig firmly tied to the pickup and Sim and Kevin keeping alert and beady eyes on our remaining want away. 
We eventually found the girls house in the middle of a plantation. They were very pleased to see us and jumped for joy into Sims and my arms. Worth every minute of discomfort and every penny spent in getting us here. Lydia had never been to school until we met her. My eldest daughter still tells of the moment that she first took her to school back in 2008. She describes how she bounced al the way to school. Both Juliet 13 and Lydia 11 have become excellent students. There school reports were amazing. I am so proud. Both are at least 3 years behind in there schooling but even so they are still doing very well. After a deep but important conversation with Juliet about treatment by her parents and in particular her step father we left satisfied at their happiness and safety. We travelled over a marram road to Malangata and arrived almost 1 hour late but well within acceptable bounds for an African meeting. I first went to settle the dispute with the elderly neighbour over the coffee plants (see Day 6) she sat and sulked like a child and at first refused the compensation that I had carefully calculated yesterday. In the end I forced the issue and insisted on the compensation whilst telling her that it was best for neighbourly relations and also knowing that it would a err any later problems with her. The meeting was a wonderful success. I spoke well for 1/2 an hour describing what we wanted to do and how and then opened the floor for questions. At first nothing. Then gradually a trickle became a stream and eventually grew into a big river in full flow. It was a very exciting time and with all the enthusiasm around I have a list of 14 people that would like some training on farming techniques. Various training courses that I will need to find teachers for. I will look for volunteers that can give a few weeks or longer for these under privileged people. 
I started our first course immediately as one man wanted to know more about building techniques. I introduced him immediately to my builder James and Cranmer starts tomorrow morning at 8 o'clock. 
Such satisfaction. 
We have a couple of artists working on the sign for the new building as soon as we go to sign writing ill tell the story about the name and the thinking behind it. 
And I nearly forgot attached are a few photos of the water tanks and the building work necessary for their installation. 
So excited.




Tuesday, 20 August 2013

Day 7 Tuesday 20th

Wow, wow and wow. What a great day. So much to tell and so many wonderful things I doubt that I will get them all on here. We were woken at 7 o'clock by the parrot again. This time it started without the alarm and the alarm joined in as the snooze. It is the weirdest of happenings. In the grounds of our guest house there is a small set of rooms. We met Kevin who rents one of them for 50,000 shillings per month. That is about £12.50. Kevin is a confident, beautiful, vivacious 25 year old. She still studies and is in Kampala to complete her studies. As her course is at weekends only she is often at a loose end during the week. We invited her to spend the day with us, which she was very excited to do. Kevin's studies were broken because she was schooled right in the middle of the war in the north. The war that left Joseph Koni as a war criminal and only last year was declared the world's most wanted man by the US because of his crimes against humanity. Koni's attempt to rule the north of Uganda according to his interpretation of the Ten Commandments has earned him and his organisation (The Lord's Resistance Army) the infamy that is deserves. Kevin, as an 11 year old, lost many of her friends who were abducted for sex, slavery or to be used as child soldiers. (Very 10 commandments don't you think?) She escaped the soldiers by her father's swift forethought and escaped by a matter of hours. Her father, a local leader, was murdered in front of her older siblings. She has many stories to tell as you can imagine.
Our first job of the day was to load the pickup with manure for the land that Benedicta has in her family. It is the place that she manages to gain most of her food from. After a hilarious journey with many African stories and cross language and cultural banter, we arrived at the plot 1 1/2 hours later. It rained most of the day and we stank from manure and also from the 8 piglets that were loaded for distribution. After a similar journey back to Kampala City we eventually arrived at the house of Florence, Lillian, Roidah and Rebecca. I say house but it is nothing that you would recognise as a house. I'm sure that had you journeyed with us, if you had seen the conditions that these poor children live in, your heart would be broken like ours. The shed consists of 2 rooms both 9ftx9ft. One is for the mother and father - the girl's aunty and uncle - and the baby (Elizabeth). The girl's own parents are no longer alive and so at the ages of 3,5,7 and 9 they were left to fend for themselves several years ago. The other room in the 'house' is used as the  sitting room and bedroom for the 4 girls. Behind a curtain is their mattress with a mosquito net precariously suspended from the corrugated iron roof. As we arrived the girls ran with great excitement to meet us. I haven't managed to see the girls in two years and for me it was a very emotional greeting. I am thrilled that even against all the odds their human spirit is still beautiful. We gave them 4 piglets and the 'mother' was dumbfounded. She was speechless and without words. She choked back her tears and attempted to thank thank thank for several moments. A sign of respect in Uganda is to take a lower position than the one that you are respecting and kneel or sit at their feet. I raised the woman to her feet and as she thanked me profusely. It was one of those most precious of moments.  We left and as it was now quite late we decided to wait 'til tomorrow to complete this job - we still have 4 more piglets to deliver to two more of our girls tomorrow. 
What an amazing and truly wonderful day. 
Oh and I nearly forgot to say...... Because of our faithfulness and commitment to Uganda and her people we were given a two acre plot on a 99 year lease today to do with as we see fit. Amazing! We've not quite finished one centre yet and we've been given the land to be able to affect another community. 
Sometimes this is the most incredible job. 





Monday, 19 August 2013

Day 6 Mon 19th

We awoke to the sound of the iPhone pre-set alarm. Within a few seconds of ceremonially stopping the noise we had a whistling echo from outside our window. It seemed strange but at nothing o'clock almost anything goes doesn't it? After a few minutes snooze, the alarm tone disturbed our slumber once again. During the short break between repeated interruptions we were once again serenaded with a whistler outside our window. Apparently it is what wild parrots do. How cool is that?
After a simple breakfast on the verandah as we watched Kampala City waking up we had the most hilarious lesson in how to play a Ugandan game like draughts??? We had a demonstration of the game in Ugandan English and roared with laughter as the game made no sense to us whatsoever. The game board has many small dents each filled with seeds and the idea is to win. Please don't ask us how to play we were just observers and even though we expressed a desire to learn were no clearer at the end of the game than at the beginning. 
We set out for Crest Tanks where we purchased 2 water tanks for rain harvesting. After a persuasive request for a better price the saleswoman caved in and gave something like 15% off. Paul and James, our builder, said there was no chance of a reduction but we managed a great deal for us. A school in Suffolk and a Yoga club have bought the tanks and they will be thrilled when they are fully installed later this week. Whilst there, we were treated to a demonstration of a new product. I want one. It is an extractor of methane from fermenting cow dung. It not only produces a quality fertiliser but 3 hours of methane at a time that can provide cooking gas or camping type lamps. It would be a superb product for several situations that we work with here. I am quite sure that we will buy some in the future. The cost was £1000? Free gas and fertiliser for 30 years - the lifetime of the unit. Oh yes! and a cow is needed also. 
We then travelled to Malangata with me at the wheel and Sarah in the rear quite nervous of the speed that I apparently drive on the highway. What is more frightening about this is, that at times as I am driving, I am overtaken by an inter city coach hurtling past us on the wrong side of the road with a taxi bus racing towards us at the same time with horn blaring, flashers flashing and headlamps flashing furiously. African driving is quite something that no end of explanations could help describe, You just have to experience it to believe it.
At Malangata the access road is excellent. It makes the whole project so useable and we took loads of photos up and down the road to watch how the site has developed over time. We are calling the engineer back as he has missed some of the work that we asked to be completed. 
We had a lunch of water dry bread roll and soggy crisps and then had a meeting with a neighbour who had a grievance with us over the road installation. She was one of the few villagers who didn't attend the meeting on Sarurday. The leveller machine had uprooted three old coffee plants and she was very angry and wanted compensation. She doesn't want the plants replaced because she's too old to to be bothered with tending them but nonetheless wants compensation anyway. To the tune of 100,000 Shillings. A month's wage for many workers here in Ugandar. We made it clear we would not pay such a figure. She was still angry but I told her that we would consult and make some enquiries and make her a very fair offer. So if anyone can find out the yearly yield of an old coffee plant it might be useful. In my enquiries I discovered that coffee beans are sold at approx. .60p a kilo here. Wow! someone somewhere makes a killing on coffee beans as at the end of the chain in Tesco a kilo of coffee beans costs almost £13 Useful information, as I try to appease the disgruntled neighbour. 100,000 Shillings is probably the price for the colour of my skin. 


Sunday, 18 August 2013

Day 5 Sun 18th

Morning
Not much to report today. Sim and I checked out of Red Chilli and have transferred for a week to a new guest house. Very plush. A little bit of spoiling (African standard) and an early reccie for next year's trip to Uganda. If you'd be interested in a life changing African experience check out 'travel' at the Possibilities website. 
Today being Sunday means that we are forced to do very little. We're catching up on correspondence and general charity business. This is not very exciting. 
At Malangata the road and landscaping of the site will be going on (photos tomorrow) I wish we were there to see it and be involved. 

Evening
Well this day turned out to be most productive after all. It was useful for strategising and setting vision. Sim and I went out to discover the sights and sounds of Muyenga. Muyenga is a very wealthy district of Kamplala and obviously has a strong Italian presence. This suits me completely. I love all things Italian. We found an Italian Ice cream shop and treated ourselves. I know it sounds bizarre to find a gelateria in darkest Africa but Uganda always surprises me. There is an expression 'only in America' which we often use in the UK. There is a similar expression here 'TIA' This is Africa. This should be said with a shrug of the shoulders and with a sense of resignation in the voice. This is Africa, nothing surprises me. 
Next to the Gelateria is an Italian Supermarket. It stocks wine, mozzarella and all kinds of European groceries???? TIA. 
We spent some time over several sodas trying to come up with a name for the new centre. It was a giggle and we enjoyed the process as much as finally arriving at an appropriate name. We started designing a sign to place at the entrance to the road that we have just built
The name of the centre will be.......
On second thoughts I think I'll keep you in limbo. If you'd like to be involved in designing an entrance sign for the new centre at Malangata please message me on facebook or via email and we can discuss what's needed. All will be revealed soon.
We then went to a superb Italian restaurant and shared a three course meal with drinks for £25 total. Sometimes when surrounded by the poverty and inequality that we serve here we just need a little escapism to refuel so that we can 'go again'. 
The meal was very special because of the time spent together but also because I discovered a superb app for my phone that saves me a lot of money and helps us keep contact with home. 
If you travel, then if you only get one app for your smartphone then this should be it. 'Truphone'.  I can ring the UK via wifi, app to app for free. App to mobile for 4p per minute, app to home phone for 1p per minute. 

Actually this is a top tip for most phone calls travelling or not.